More from Washington's Olympic Peninsula

It's just a few hours drive from Seattle, but the Olympic Peninsula feels like a completely different world. The most northwestern corner of the United States has peaks of nearly 8000 feet right next to temperate rain forests that see 140 inches of rain every year. Eight kinds of plants and 15 kinds of animals are found exclusively on the peninsula. Outdoor adventures, such as hiking, camping, fishing and boating abound, as do the opportunity to experience the region's Native American cultures, quaint towns and unique sights.

Ruby Beach and forest edge
There are three regions within the large peninsula that are good places to use as a base for sightseeing and other activities. Chose one for a short getaway or combine them for a longer trip.

STRAIT EDGE

The northern portion of the peninsula is home to some of the most spectacular scenery as well as largest towns in the region. Staying in this area gives you the opportunity to hike along mountain summits, fish in glacier lakes or visit some quaint towns.

Port Angeles is home to the Olympic National Park Visitor Center. In addition to maps, trail guides and campground information, the Visitor Center offers a 25-minute video about the park's natural and cultural history, as well as exhibits and a hands-on Discovery Room for kids. Hurricane Ridge Road takes visitors from Port Angeles into Olympic National Park where it is not unusual to see Columbia blacktail deer and even an occasional black bear along the roadside. As the road twists and winds its way up the mountainside, you'll pass the first campground, Heart O' The Hills, before climbing to overlooks with spectacular views of Port Angeles, the Straight of Juan de Fuca and British Columbia in the distance.

Hurricane Ridge gets its name from the 75-plus-mile-per-hour gusts that buffet the mountainside as more than 30 feet of snow falls annually. As a result, the road is open daily from mid-May through October and on weekends during the winter, if weather permits. Once on the ridge, there are over a half-dozen hikes and several picnic areas as well as a snack bar and restrooms at a visitor center. Several short trails can be combined along the ridge for some breathtaking views. The Cirque Rim, Big Meadow and High Ridge trails are all easy walks.

East of Port Angeles are the towns of Sequim and Port Townsend. Spend some time touring Sequim's flower, herb, berry and animal farms. Sequim also has some unique opportunities for wildlife viewing in a natural setting. Roosevelt Elk are often seen at the edges of town in the early morning hours, while the Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge is home to the famous Dungeness Crab. The refuge, one of the world's longest natural sand spits, extends into the Strait of Juan de Fuca, creating a quiet harbor where opportunities to see harbor seals and various waterfowl. As easy half-mile walk leads from the parking area through the forest to an overlook of the Dungeness Spit. It's a five-mile beach walk on the spit itself to the historic lighthouse, which offers tours. Be sure to check the tide report before starting out, as the spit is quite narrow in places and can sometimes be submerged.

Further east, Port Townsend, is a small Victorian seaport. This is the starting point for a day-long whale watch, or a trip to the San Juan Islands. The ferry to Whidbey Island also departs from here.

Heading west on Highway 101 from Port Angeles takes you toward the national park. Along the way, you'll see the blue-green water of Lake Crescent lapping just a few feet from the road in what is perhaps the most scenic portion of the Highway 101 loop. Carved by glaciers, this crystal clear lake has virtually no algae and is 624 feet deep. Park campgrounds are located at Fairholme, at the west end of the lake, while several private campgrounds are along the lake's north shore.

There are hiking trails all around Lake Crescent. Located at a turnout off Highway 101 is the trailhead to Marymere Falls, a two-mile round trip hike through an old growth forest to a 90-foot waterfall. The Spruce Railroad trail, located along the north shore of the lake, provides some stunning views of the lake from a wide, mostly flat trail that is four-miles one-way.

Just a few miles west of Lake Crescent is the turn to the Sol Duc area, which offers a river, hot springs, spectacular waterfalls and old growth forest. Within the park is the Sol Duc Hot Springs, a resort known for its mineral hot water pools. It offers both cabins and RV sites on the property. Sol Duc Road ends at the trailhead to the Sol Duc Falls, a spectacular triple waterfall. The hike is an easy 0.8-mile one way through an old growth forest and links to several other trails for longer hikes.

RAINFORESTS AND BEACHES

The western portion of the peninsula is the most diverse, ranging from blue-green ocean and forests that meet dark sand beaches to moss-laden trees and peaceful lakes. Head to Cape Flattery and stand where the Pacific Ocean meets the Straight of Juan de Fuca. The three-quarter-mile walk from the parking area to the lookout point is a combination of well-groomed dirt and cedar-plank boardwalks. At the trail's end, there are a number of small overlooks with stunning views of sea caves, the glistening Pacific and tiny Tatoosh Island with the historic Cape Flattery Lighthouse. If it's a nice day, pack a picnic lunch and carry it to the trail end, where there are a handful of picnic tables nestled among the trees. More adventurous hikers can work off their lunch by following the trail spur down to the sea caves.

While the Olympic Peninsula is filled with dramatic scenery, the views within the Hoh Rain Forest are positively otherworldly. The unique climate of voluminous amounts of rain (140 inches annually) combined with mild winters and cool summers result in giant trees filled with mosses, while ferns and other plants fill the forest floor. Within the Hoh, the 0.8-mile Hall of Mosses loop trail and the 1.2-mile Spruce Nature Trail are absolute musts. These trails can be quite popular in the summer months, so consider a visit early in the morning or in the early evening to avoid the crowds. There's a campground with 88 sites here, as well as several NPS-managed and private campgrounds along the road to the Hoh Rain Forest.

While the Hoh Rain Forest is the larger rain forest in the region, the Quinault Rain Forest, located in the southern portion of Olympic National Park, has similar views. Quinault is located adjacent to Lake Quinault, which has boat and bicycle rentals as well as public and private campsites and a few restaurants. Forks is the largest town in this part of the peninsula and is a good place to restock your camping supplies.

The coastline along the peninsula is filled with “sea stacks”-giant rock outcroppings that form small islands just off the coast. In many places, the forest meets the sea right at the sand. Opportunities for beach views require a substantial drive along much of the peninsula. Take Route 110 just north of Forks to the village of La Push or Rialto Beach for some serene opportunities for wildlife viewing. The easiest beach access is south of the turn for the Hoh Rain Forest, along Highway 101 from Ruby Beach in the north to South Beach in the south. These are great beaches for day activities or overnights at campgrounds such as Kalaloch and South Beach.

HOOD CANAL REGION

Carved by one of just two inland fjords in the continental U.S., the Hood Canal is nearly 60 miles long and up to 600 feet deep. Highway 101 hugs much of the shoreline along the canal, with breathtaking scenery around nearly every corner. The canal itself is home to some of the largest octopus in the world and it is popular with scuba divers as a result.

The southernmost tip of the canal is anchored by the town of Hoodsport; jumping-off point for Lake Cushman. Located at the foot of the Olympic Mountains, Lake Cushman has 4000 acres of land-locked Chinook salmon as well as several varieties of trout. Public and private campgrounds surround the lake, which also serves as the entrance to the Staircase Recreational Area of Olympic National Park.

The center section of the canal is more rural, which means there's plenty of opportunity for wildflife viewing. Stop along the small river deltas at Duckabush and Hamma Hamma to scout for wild swan, heron, eagle and elk. The waterfalls at Dosewallips, Rock Brook and Falls View all make pleasant stops for a picnic or to camp.

Along the northern section of the canal, the towns of Quilcene and Brinnon are best known today for their seafood-specifically oysters, shrimp and clams, which are harvested from the canal. One essential stop is at Whitney Gardens in Brinnon, home to some of the most unusual rhododendrons (Washington's state flower) in the world. This large garden is a showcase for these giant blooms, as well as numerous oaks, maples, beeches, plums and other shrubs and plants.

Whether you enjoy warm, dewy climates like Hawaii or cold glacial waters like Alaska, the Olympic Peninsula offers natural sights for every taste. Spend a few days and explore one region, or take a week and make the entire journey through this unique place.

Getting There

Highway 101 forms a loop known as the “Olympic Loop” on the north, east and west sides of the peninsula, and connecting to routes 12 and 8 between Aberdeen and Olympia. To get to the peninsula, head northwest on highway 101 from Olympia or take a car ferry from Seattle to Winslow, or Edmonds to Kingston, and travel north to Highway 104, which connects with Highway 101.

Article by
Tara Baukus Mello

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