Outdoor Encounters

By: Gary L. Benton

For Goodness Snakes, what do we really know about snakes?

Snakes. That is a word spoken when I was young that was right up there with the boogieman. I was especially scared of the name of one local snake, the Copperhead. Over the years though, I have learned that snakes do not really live up to the terrible reputation they have acquired. I have also discovered that most will avoid you, if they have a choice. Yep, I know all the old stories of snakes that catch their tails in their mouths and roll, I heard about the snakes that “spit” at you (there is one of these, a cobra, in other parts of the world), snakes that fall apart when you strike them, and snakes that chase you. Well, they may be out there, but I have not seen them in my forty plus years of meandering through the woods. But, I learned a few things on a recent outing that can help make a hunting trip, survival situation, or camping trip safer.

Wally and I had taken four teenage boys on a combination fishing and camping trip. The evening was warm, but we were all huddled up around the campfire as Wally started talking about snakes. Immediately he had the boy’s attention. There is something about the subject of snakes that always seems to grab attention. Not a word was spoken as Wally told us about a creature that is hated by some, and feared by most.

“There are about 2400 different types of snakes in the world.” Wally said as he lifted his old beat up coffee cup and took a sip, “And, you might be interested to know that only a few, near 200, are actually dangerous to man. That means that less than 10 percent of the snakes in the world are harmful. But, people are usually very fast, too fast in my opinion, to kill a snake because they think it is dangerous.

“I know all about the poisonous snakes in United States. And they all, but one, belong to a group called pit vipers (The other group is called short fanged snakes, or Elapidae, and they are coral snakes). Now, some folks call pit vipers long fanged snakes, or Crotalidae. The Copperhead group, Rattlesnake group, and the Cottonmouth (Water Moccasin) are all pit vipers. Of all the snakes in the United States, I am concerned about these three, because we have al three of them in this area. Remember, though, snakes are to be respected, not feared. And, regardless of the type of snake, or its group, most will avoid man if given half a chance.”

“So, what else do I know about snakes?” Wally gave the boys a big crooked grin and continued speaking. “Actually I don’t know very much, but I have never been bitten and that makes me an expert in my mind. Snakes are usually inactive during really hot weather and during the cold season. During the winter they actually hibernate, or sleep, kinda. Keep in mind now that a snake will move to the shade during the hot part of the day and move into the sun during the cooler part of the day. So, where do these snakes live?

Snakes love to stay around woodpiles, so be cautious when gathering.
Snakes like to stay around stacked firewood (all the boys turned their heads toward our wood pile for the fire), under and around old lumber and junk piles, along stream and pond banks, under rocks or logs, and in or around old worn out buildings. They may even be in holes or on ledges during the day. Well, l now that you know just a little about snakes, what about a snake bite? How dangerous is it?

Statistics show that less than one half of one percent of people bitten by a poisonous snake will die from the bite, even if left untreated. Or, that was what the Army told me when I went through military training. I’ll tell you how to treat snakebite in a minute. Why am I going to wait to tell you? Because snakebite is very unlikely if you use common sense when you are outdoors.

First, dress for the outdoors. Wear high top boots, heavy pants (like jeans or heavy military surplus fatigues), a shirt, hat, and wear gloves when you pick up wood, or when you have to place your hands in places that could be a living room for a snake. Also, if you know there are a lot of snakes where you will be, wear snake chaps. You can purchase them at many stores and they can make your trip less stressful.

Second, make noise as you move. Now, I realize when you’re hunting you won’t want to do this, but then be extra cautious. Normally though, when moving through grasses or weeds make as much noise as you can. This will alert the snake and it will know you are coming. Stay on trails as much as possible and keep the kids close by. Be very cautious when you step over logs or large rocks. Notice I said cautious, not paranoid. Snakes hear by vibrations and the more noise you make the more vibrations that are in the air, so warn them you are coming.” Wally gave a chuckle and looked around the campfire at each boy before he continued, “Usually, with kids around noise is not a problem. Also, snakes smell you by using their tongues. That is one reason a snakes tongue is always flickering in and out. When they smell prey with their tongues they go after dinner.

The natural color of most snakes make them very difficult to spot.
Third, be aware of what is around you. In the military this is called situational awareness. Keep your eyes on the trail and watch the kids. I also keep an eye out for movement where it should not be. A well-camouflaged snake, with its natural colors, can be very difficult to see. It sounds like a lot to do and it is. I constantly scan the walkway and keep a conversation going with the kids. That makes it easier for me, because it warns the snakes we are coming.

Fourth, watch where you put your feet, hands, and body. Walking should be done with your eyes open and you being alert for any movement. Additionally, as you pick up wood for the fire, watch where you place your hands, and wear gloves. Many people are bitten each year as they pick something up. Never place your hands in a hole or place you cannot see into. Snakes often use dens, holes, or lie under rocks. Also, people think snakes come out by the thousands when it gets dark, this is not true, but they are harder to see. Always carry a flashlight after dark.

So, if you experience snakebite, how would you know? Perhaps you will see the snake strike, or feel a sudden pain from a bite, but not always. Also, Rattlesnakes do not always rattle before they strike, so you may not hear a warning either. You will start to swell around the bitten area, usually within 3 minutes or so. And, you may continue to swell for almost an hour. But, wait, there is more.” I noticed the boys were all ears as Wally continued, “During this time there is usually severe pain associated with the bite. If you check the injured area you will see the fang marks (normally two punctures, but there may be only one if the snake did not get a good bite), some bleeding, intense swelling, and there will be blood in the victim urine. This blood is from major organs that are injured by cell loss and tissue damage. Your patient will experience a bad headache, a lowering of their blood pressure with an increased pulse rate. Usually they suffer from severe thirst as well. Medical treatment should be sought immediately, because death can occur within 24-48 hours if left untreated for some individuals. If you consider all the snakebites around the world, the pit vipers cause most of the deaths.
If you experience a snake bite, if possible, immediately seek help.
Well, now you know even more about snakes, what do you do if you get unlucky and experience snakebite? As I said earlier, you will find most bites occur to hands, feet, and legs. You should cut the pant leg (or any clothing) or remove the pants (clothing). This should be done in case the swelling becomes severe. Then, most doctors will tell you to wash and clean the bite with soap and water, immobilize the bite, treat for shock, and immediately seek medical attention. Also, various doctors will tell you to not cut the bite like they do in the movies, not to suck the poison out, and not to put a tourniquet on the injury. According to some doctors those television techniques might just compound the damage done. It makes sense to me. It all sounds easy, huh?”

All right, lets review some of the rules about snakes and the outdoors.

- Watch where you walk at all times in snake country.

- Make noise as you move, especially in tall grass and slow moving water.

- Watch where you put your hands and feet at all times.

- Wear heavy pants, high top boots, and gloves in snake country.

- If you corner a snake, make no sudden moves. Back off very slowly. The snake may strike at quick movements.

- Always check for snakes in your sleeping area, including your sleeping bag, and clothing before using them.

- Use sticks or shovels to move logs, fallen leaves, or rocks. Snakes love to stay in those areas.

- Never handle a live poisonous snake. If you must use a snake for food, kill it and remove the head before you handle it.

- Treat all snakes with respect. They are part of nature and should not be played with, tormented, or abused. Leave them alone and most of the time they will leave you alone. The boys all looked around the campsite and not a word was spoken for a long time. Wally had really educated them and they were thinking about what he had said. The lesson must have taken hold because a few hours later one the boys approached me and asked to use the flashlight. He said he had to use the bathroom. As he walked down the trail to the port-a-toilet I could not help but notice he had his jeans on, his boots and was sweeping the light from side to side on the trail. I slowly shook my head and thought “Yep, Wally surprises even me sometimes.”

It doesn’t matter if you hike, fish, camp, or hunt, you should have a basic understanding of snakes. While they actually pose a small threat to those of us who enjoy the outdoors, they can harm you. And, those of us who hunt often go off the beaten path in search of game, so we need to be extra cautious. Dress properly, use good common snake sense, and your trip should be uneventful.

Stay safe and take care of yourself. I hope to see you on the trail soon.

When shopping for a new tent, look for features that will let you enjoy the use of that tent for many years to come. Know your budget and decide ahead of time how much you can afford to spend. I’m not necessarily advocating that you buy the most expensive tent available in your price range, but it will help you know what your choices are. Once you know how much you can spend it’s time to analyze the features of the tents in that price range. Let’s begin by looking at the most important feature of a tent:
How big should a tent be?
If you’re not planning to backpack or canoe camp, the size and weight of a tent doesn’t matter so long as it fits in your vehicle. Tent capacity is based on the square footage and how many standard sleeping bags will fit in it. For example, a 2-person tent will accommodate just two people.

There will be very little elbow room or extra storage space. You’ll find a 4-person tent will be more comfortable for two people, and you will have space to spread out and store your gear too. For a family of four I recommend a 6-person tent. As a rule-of-thumb buy a tent that has a capacity rated two people higher than the number that will actually be using it.
You may want to check out the multi-room tents. If you’re camping with the kids, a 2-room tent provides a little privacy. Multi-room tents come in 2-room styles, where the rooms are separated by an inside tent wall with a zippered door. There are 3-room styles that are like the 2-room ones but with an added screen room, which is nice for changing wet or dirty clothes before entering the other rooms, and which are great for setting up chairs or a table to use in case it rains. There are also 2-room tents, which have just one large sleeping area and an attached screen room. Tents with screen rooms attached are great for storing gear outside the sleeping area.

What tent features should I look for?

A tent with aluminum poles.
Tents may come with fiberglass poles, but they are fragile and more likely to break. If you bend or break a pole, most camping stores sell replacements or repair kits.

A tent with an adequate rainfly.
The rainfly is your tent’s umbrella. The bigger the better. Look for a fly that comes well down the sides of the tent rather than just across the top. Rainflies are waterproof. Tent walls are water-repellant.

A tent with folded seams and double stitching.
If you can pull the material on either side of a seam and see through the stitches, this tent will leak. Be sure to use seam sealer on all seams.

A tent with a one piece tub floor.
The floor should be made of waterproof material, and it should come a few inches up the sides before it is sown to the tent walls. No seam in the floor means there is no place for water to seep in.

A tent with adequate guy lines.
Tent walls, and sometimes rainflies, have loops sown near the middle. These loops are used to attach guy lines that pull out the walls so that they are taught. It’s impossible to sleep in a tent that’s flapping in the wind.

A tent with good-sized stake loops.
There should be loops at the base of your tent in every corner and at the center of each side. These loops need to be big enough to accommodate the large plastic stakes sold in camping stores. Material stake loops are preferred. Plastic ones might break when you hammer in the stakes.

A tent that uses noseeum meshing.
This is the best material for keeping those nasty little bugs out.

A tent with a roof vent.
Opening this at night will help create some air circulation and eliminate condensation inside your tent.

A tent with heavy-duty zippers.
You’ll be in and out of your tent a lot so you want zippers that will hold up to frequent use.
Additional Tips To Prolong The Life Of Your Tent
Never store food in or around your tent, and never eat in your tent. The smell of food alone will tempt critters to tear into your tent to get at it. If your campsite has a picnic table, eat there and store food in your car. If you have a tent with an attached screen room, it’s okay to eat there, but be sure to thoroughly clean up afterwards or you will be bothered by ants, bugs, and other critters. If you camp in an area that is prone to pests, consider buying a separate screen room to set up as an eating area.

If your tent comes with a ground cloth, use it. These footprint tarps are made slightly smaller than the base of your tent. Their purpose is to help protect the tent floor from sticks, stones, and rough spots. They also help to keep ground water from seeping into the tent. You can use a regular tarp, but be sure to tuck the edges under the tent so that rain doesn’t run down the tent walls onto the tarp and consequently collects under the tent.

When you return from a camping trip. set your tent up in the yard and air it out. This will help prevent mold and mildew.

Do not store your tent in a stuff sack. Store it loosely in a dry ventilated area. Use the stuff sack to pack your tent when going to and from the campground.

Visit our store to browse camping tents for sale at great discount prices.

By: Gary L. Benton

A sudden storm can turn a enjoyable hunting trip into a real survival situation. If you have a survival kit and you’re prepared mentally, survival is not that difficult in most environments.
Most of us who spend a lot of time in the woods, but we rarely think about survival, we are having too much fun. We spend days or perhaps even weeks living in the woods, hunting, fishing, hiking, or just camping out and do it all with without a care in the world. I realize that is why most of us spent time with Mother Nature, however, as beautiful as the outdoors is, it can be a very harsh place for those who are not prepared. She can be deadly to the foolhardy. So to assist me when I am in the wilds I have developed the Ten Rules to Survive By:

1. Always be prepared to survive, always! No matter if you are just taking an afternoon hike on a designated trail in a National Forest, and you do not intend to get off of the beaten trail, make sure to take a survival kit. Additionally, carry clothing for changes in the weather, for instance, ponchos, hats, light jacket, even on days it looks like you won’t need them. The weather can change a lot in just a few hours and in the mountains this change can occur in just a few minutes. Ensure any clothing, boots (I never wear sneakers in the woods), or gloves you carry fit properly and are in good condition. If you are an inexperienced outdoors person, take a small survival book (I like the SAS survival manual for its size and information) along with a good first aid book. Both of these could save your life in an emergency.

Your kit should, as a minimum have the following items packed in it, or you should carry them on yourself,

· A quality penknife or jack knife

· A canteen, water bottle, or plastic freezer bags

· Matches in a waterproof plastic container (military surplus)

· Flint and steel or a metal match

· Water purification tables

· A long strip of heavy-duty aluminum foil folded up to cook with

· Fishing kit, i.e., hooks, sinkers, and some line. Nothing fancy.

· Commercial back packing first aid kit (with instructions). I carry a

small first aid kit (I have placed a small hotel size bar of soap inside my kit).

· One small pack of gum and one small bag of hard candy (energy)

· Casualty Blanket, sometimes called a thermal blanket

· Instant powder broth, beef or chicken, four servings total

· Survival Whistle, small, made of plastic and with a lanyard

· Any prescription medications you might need or other components you feel you have to have along.

2. Always tell someone you are going. Each year search and rescues are initiated for people lost in the woods and the effort is often made very difficult because the rescue team has no starting point. When you go outdoors, always tell someone the who, what, when, and where of your trip. An example might be telling your boss (who) that you and your wife are going camping (what) over the weekend (when) in Big Piney Mountains (where). I suggest you give even more details, such as the date and time you intend to leave as well as when you expect to return. I would also suggest telling more about where you are camping, the exact spot if you know the name of it would help.

3. If you become lost in the woods, or have to survive for any number of reasons, your first concern (unless the weather is really nasty and life threatening) is finding safe drinking water. My reason for putting water so high on this list is due to the fact that the human body can only survive for around three days without water (depending on the ambient air temperature of course). You can carry large zip-lock freezer bags, water bottles, or even rubber gloves to use as emergency containers if needed. I always carry a quart canteen on my web belt. Another aspect of water to consider is just how safe is the water you will be drinking? Even if the water source is crystal clear and fast moving, always treat drinking water with water purification tables or boil it. If you use a commercial ‘water straw’ or other filtering system, make sure it is rated to do the job you require of it.

A simple shelter can be constructed using the steps in this illustration. Once the frame is completed you can cover it with a poncho, casualty blanket, or tarp.

4. Regardless of the weather, construct a shelter. Weather conditions can change quickly, as I said earlier, and you don’t want to be caught out in a blizzard, rainstorm, or hailstorm, attempting to survive without a shelter. And, construct your shelter before the bad weather hits! Another reason to construct a shelter is for psychological reasons. Mankind has a deep need for having a shelter on hand. Just seeing a shelter is often a great psychological relief and while it is not a home, it will assist in making the time you spend in an emergency situation that much more comfortable. I always carry a casualty blanket and it can be used to make a shelter very quickly. Simply secure a long limb (with the branches removed), about two or three feet off the ground, to a tree. Then, construct the frame, as shown in the illustration and place a casualty blanket, poncho, or tarp, over the framework (centered), and stake the hanging ends of the material down using sharpened sticks. It will actually look like a modified A frame tent. If it is snowing, or there is snow on the ground, you can place pine boughs over the whole shelter and then cover it all with snow. The snow will help insulate the shelter. While not the best shelter for really cold weather, it will keep you dry in most wet weather.

5. Unless the weather is extremely cold, I usually procure water and construct a shelter before I worry about this step, making a fire. While a fire is needed, its importance is often much over rated. Of course in cold weather you need a fire to keep warm and to avoid hypothermia, but in most cases we have a fire for purely psychological reasons. Remember to keep your fire burning in a fire pit and surround the pit with stones (in the winter this may not be possible, but you can make your fire on a platform of green logs). Keep your fire small and not too close to your shelter. A heat reflector, placed 180 degrees from your shelter entrance, will help keep you was as well. Also, use only dry dead wood, because green or wet wood will smoke, burn slowly, and give off little heat. In wet weather you usually find dry wood (squaw wood) on the ground under the lower branches of big trees. Keep in mind it may be up near the base (trunk) of the tree. And, keep your fire safe by having water, snow, dirt, or sand available to use in case the fire gets out of hand.

In cold weather a heat reflector will reflect heat that would normally be lost back towards your shelter. . Make the reflector 180 degrees from your shelter entrance.

6. If you experience an injury, regardless of how slight it might be, take care of it immediately. That means washing it with soap and water, disinfecting it with alcohol or other medication from your first aid kit (always carry a first aid kit with you in the field), and then covering the injury to keep it clean. You can cover most common injuries with a simple band-aid, in other cases you may need to rip up some of your clean clothing to apply a bandage (A woman’s sanitary napkin or pad makes an excellent emergency bandage). Keep the injury clean too. Each day I suggest you removed the bandage, wash the injured area, disinfect it once more, and then recover it. Even the smallest cuts can quickly become infected if not properly cared for in the woods, so take care of all injuries immediately. And, always stay as clean as possible when you are in the field. Good hygiene will help keep you healthy.

7. Stay as clean and dry as possible. It’s my opinion that nothing causes more discomfort to a person in a survival situation like being wet, unless it is being both wet and cold. (Dry and clean clothing insulates you better as well and means you will stay warmer). Gather all possible foods, procure all water, and gather plenty of wood before the bad weather hits, if possible. I realize in some situations you will not be able to do that. But, at the same time, use good common sense; if you don’t need something immediately to survive don’t go out in the rain in an attempt to locate it. Stay under your shelter and wait for a break in the weather. Unlike at home, you can’t throw your wet clothing in a dryer and wait twenty minutes for them to dry. It can take a very long time for your clothing to dry by a campfire and in the mean time you may be shivering in the cold, or perhaps even experience hypothermia (the lowering of the body’s core temperature). Additionally, dry and clean clothing will keep you warmer and feeling much better.

A suggestion here, wool, Thinsolite ®, and Goretex ® will all keep you dry and warm even when wet. Of the three types of material, wool is less expensive to purchase and does an excellent job even when soaking wet.

8. As soon as your immediate survival needs are met, start construction of some sort of signals. Keep in mind, the idea behind a signal is to draw attention to your position. You can do this by using contrasts in color, shapes, or sunlight. For instance, a large ‘X’ could be made by piling snow up in an open field (make the signal at least eighteen feet long and three wide if possible). The ‘walls’ of this signal will cast a shadow (if the sun is out) and should be visible to aircrew members flying near by. So the higher the signal is, the bigger the shadow. On cloudy or hazy days, make three small fires and place them so they resemble a triangle (with a fire at each corner). Keep one fire burning all the time and the other two right to light immediately. When you hear an aircraft flying near, add pine boughs or grasses to make the fires flare up (be careful not to let your fire get out of hand at this point or of being burned). Keep the precut boughs close to the fire, but not so close they could catch fire accidentally. The sudden flare of the fires, from the added pine boughs, as well as the color of the smoke will attract attention. Keep your signal mirror, whistle, or other emergency signaling equipment from your survival kit on you at all times.

9. One aspect of survival most folks never consider is hygiene. Unlike a normal camping situation, if you get ill from poor hygiene in a survival situation you are not running off to the doctor or emergency room for treatment. And, survival hygiene is much more than just keeping clean and it also takes some serious thought.

In the field during normal conditions I shave and wash daily because I feel better. This may not be possible in a survival situation, but it is important to stay clean to avoid infections from small cuts. This means also keeping your clothing as clean as possible. Also, designate a toilet area and make sure everyone with you uses it. Locate your ‘bathroom’ away from your immediate survival site (I suggest a hundred feet) and not near any source of ‘clean’ water. Additionally, don’t locate your toilet up hill from your camp. Wastewater, urine and dirty wash water (if you are lucky enough to have enough water to wash with) will run down hill. When the temperatures are mild, make sure everyone uses loosened soil to cover human waste; it will keep the flies and other insects down (not to mention the smell).

Clean all foods and treat all drinking water prior to using. Dirty food and ‘bad’ water can lay you low in no time at all. Just like home, wash your hands (if you have enough water to do so) prior to preparing meals, keep any utensils you use clean (even if it is only a pocket knife), and keep your survival site clean of bones, scraps of food, and waste. Poor hygiene will not only lay you low, it could keep you low for a very long time.

10. Finally, consider your mental health. Humans are creatures of groups and as such, we tend to suffer from anxiety when separated from others. In a survival situation, separation is why we are where we are. A mishap has occurred that has placed you outside our society. You must fight back against unhealthy thoughts as you attempt to survive. Remember, people are looking for you and if you just stay safe they will eventually find you. Keep reminding yourself that they will find you! Remember, most survivors in the states are found within 24-48 hours, so a prolonged survival stay is very unusual. Nonetheless, it is normal for you to experience some periodic feelings of helplessness, deep concern, anxiety, or even a deep fear. The key is for you to stay as busy as possible and not to dwell on those feelings. Stay active and remind yourself at times on the progress you are making toward your own survival. Concentrate of successes and not failures. You can expect some failures; so don’t keep harping on them over and over again, because it will just wear you down mentally.

Stay active and attempt to keep a positive attitude. Almost everyone who experiences a survival situation has periods of anxiety, panic, fear, or helplessness. Fight back by keeping busy.

Survival is difficult at the best of times. The ceaseless struggle of trying to stay alive, the constant battle with our own minds, and even keeping the will to survive can be very difficult tasks. I suggest, while these steps in themselves will not keep you alive, they will give you a better understanding of what can needs to be done in a survival situation. However, I do believe if you follow my ten steps to survival, you too will survive!

© GL Benton and licensors

Nikon ProStaff Laser 440 Rangefinder Review
by BGH Staff
http://www.biggamehunt.net

Nikon offers a variety of rangefinders for hunters. The Laser 440 rangefinder, available in either Realtree camo or ProStaff green, is Nikon’s entry level model and has a maximum ranging ability of up to 437 yards on a reflective target. The more expensive models in the Nikon lineup, such as the Laser 600, 800, or 1200 offer more features, but the biggest difference is their ability to range longer distances.

The 440 can range in half meter/yard increments out to 100 yards and then has one meter resolution out to 440 yards. In testing, the 440 accurately ranged distances from 11 to 400 yards on a range that had known distances. One of the nicer features is that you do not have to change the mode in order to range close distances. Most other rangefinders on the market today require setting a special mode for ranging less than 150 yards or even less than 50 yards. This can be annoying when you quickly want to move from a close to a distant object seamlessly. Like other rangefinders, the maximum ranging distance will be less if the target is non-reflective.

Operating the Nikon 440, unlike our earlier review of the Leupold RX-II, is simple. There are two buttons: Power and Mode. Depressing and holding the mode button will switch the distance readout to yards or meters. The power button turns the rangefinder on and when you depress and hold the power button it will go into scan mode. In scan mode a continual distance readout is displayed, which is handy when moving quickly from target to target. When scanning, it is important to hold over the intended target for at least a few seconds in order for the processor to get an accurate reading. After about 8 seconds of no use, the 440 will power off automatically to conserve power. It would be nice to adjust the power off time to be a little longer, but it just takes a simple depress of the power button to start ranging again.

The 8x ocular piece has a diopter adjustment on it that allows the user, like most binoculars, to adjust the focal plane to your eyes. The 8x is more powerful than the 6x or 4x that is common on entry level models from other manufacturers. However the eye piece is a little on the small side and a larger ocular would be nice, although it is not prohibitive.

Like most other rangefinders in its class, the ProStaff 440 comes with a standard set of accessories. A nylon carrying pouch with a belt loop, a single 3 volt CR2 battery, and a lanyard loop. While the CR2 is becoming common due to their use in some digital cameras and other portable electronics, it would be nice if the 440 operated on the standard AA or AAA format. However the unit will deliver roughly 6000 measurements on a single fresh battery, so its unlikely a user will have to change batteries often.

One measure of rangefinders is how much hand jitter the device can tolerate and still range accurately. Jitter becomes an issue if you have a hard time holding a focus for physical reasons or its just a cold windy day and your teeth are chattering. While we have no way to quantify this property, the Nikons in general seem to do a better job of tolerating jitter than comparable models from other manufacturers. Although jitter tolerance falls off rapidly as the range increases.

In conclusion if you are looking for a basic rangefinder it is tough to beat the Nikon 440. It is a simple point and click device that just works and comes in at a street price around $200. It does not offer any advanced modes of other rangefinders; however it excels at quickly and reliably measuring distances. Remember that if you are shooting on an angle, either incline or decline, that the 440 will only give you the line of sight distance to the target, which is not the same as ballistic distance. If you want to range in ballistic distance, you need to look to a more advanced model.

http://www.rifles-n-rods.com